By Nicole Phelps
With Hannah MacGibbon out and Clare Waight Keller's runway debut slated for this October, Chloé's Resort collection was put together by the design team. So this was a season less about floating new ideas and more about reworking house classics. Luckily for team Chloé, the seventies (the era from which Chloé sprang and the one favored by MacGibbon) are still lingering in the air. The flaring, wide-leg pants we've been seeing on the label's Paris catwalk for the last several seasons (and on the streets everywhere) were back, in everything from black sequins to denim chambray to cotton sweatsuit fabric. And the familiar airy trapeze dresses got a refresh, too, the best coming in a vivid green silk. Outerwear was a strong point, whether it was the army green patent leather trench or the crisp navy coat with the built-in mini cape. In the end, though, this is a brand in a holding pattern waiting for its new leader.
Accessories are no small part of Proenza's success, and the designers have duly paid a lot of attention to this season's PS1 bags; the ticking stripe trimmed in python looks destined to be a success. As for the handcrafted necklaces Jack and Lazaro made in collaboration with Alex & Lee (art jewelers who were big in the seventies and have enjoyed several fashion world revivals since), they were fabulous, and, because they will be produced in limited quantities, they'll be instant collector's items.

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